Sunday, March 9, 2008.2:15 PM
Almenraeder's way of reed-making
(Forming the reed)When you think the cane is ready to be folded, take a knife with a rectangular end and notch the rear of the cane (here Almenraeder means to score the tube section at the bottom only, as in his drawing, Table IV, Fig 5). The flatter the two halves are against each other at point 'a' and 'b', the better the prospect for a good reed. (See Table IV, Figs. 4 and 7.) Shape the other side of the reed blade to match the already shaped side and bind the halves together tightly (as shown in Fig. 5.).
Immerse the bound reed in water for about five minutes, and after greasing the mandrel force it between the two halves being careful not to push the mandrel quite as far into the reed as is tied with the string. If the cane has been gouged properly, the two halves will round out about the mandrel equally.
Using a wire which has had its temper removed and is flexible, attach it to the middle of the reed just where the string wrapped around it comes to an end. Unwind the string and push this wire into place as shown in Table IV, Fig. 1, at 'h' and 'i', tightening the wire again with the pliers.
Score the reed across 1/4-inch below the first wire, using the three-cornered file, so that the second wire once fastened into position will not be able to move. About four windings from the very bottom of the reed score the bark again so that when string is rewound onto the reed it will not slip.
After greasing the mandrel again, fasten the ring of it into the vise and place the reed on the mandrel. With a waxed cord, begin to bind the reed as tightly as possible, starting downwards from the second wire ring. The tighter this binding is made the less opportunity the two reed blades have to slip. If the reed does not come off the mandrel with ease, gently squeeze the cheeks of the reed and it will slip off readily.
With the reed held at the binding between the thumb and forefinger so that the flat part rests on the base of the thumb, and using a slender pen knife, carefully peel the bark off from the area 'f' and 'g'. File smooth any unevenness which remains.
Dampen the blades of the reed and place them upon a flat chopping block. Using a razor pressed against the tip of the blades, separate the halves of the reed by hitting the razor with a small hammer. The reed's tip will now have the shape of Fig. 4. If the two halves are more open than is illustrated in Fig. 3, correct this by squeezing the first wire ring. If the sides, on the other hand, be too close together, they can be opened by pressing with the pliers at points 'h' and 'i'.
(Scraping the reed)With slightly dampened shave grass which has been squeezed flat, scrape the inside of the reed as far as it is possible to enter. Now try the reed on the bassoon to determine if the high or the low range responds best. If the low register is difficult, the fault is due to the wood being too thick near the first wire. In this case the reed is filed in this area on both blades, care being taken that a gradual taper to the tip is maintained.
When response is difficult in the upper register, more wood should be removed from the tip area of both blades. Generally speaking, the tip of the reed blades should approximate the thickness of writing paper, thickening gradually all the way to the first wire.
Scrape both sides of the reed (see Fig. 6, 'k' and 'l') a little thinner than the middle thickness of the reed. Caution must be taken that the reedmaker observe the solidity of the cane with which he works, always bearing in mind the hardness of the wood being worked. Incidentally, it is best to have the sides of the reed of equal thickness (see Fig. 8). It must be emphasized that enough thickness must be retained in the area of 'o' and 'p', (Fig. 8) to give the reed the needed power and strength. Additional ease of response can be assured by filing the inside of the reed with shave grass, always with the reed damp.
If all the foregoing instructions have been carefully observed, the reed should now be ready for use. During the first four, five or six days reeds undergo many changes. The blades may spread too far apart or come too close together. Adjustments can readily be made by following the previously given instructions. Reeds have a tendency to become stronger after the first few days' use. When this occurs scrape towards the tip of the blades as often as necessary using shave grass. A little wood may also be removed from the sides of the reed.
Any accumulation of food particles on the inside of the reed may be removed by using a chicken feather, and if the reed is used a great amount it should be aired out.
If by chance, during the gouging process, the cane which now lies near the first ring has remained too thick, the reed will not produce the lower tones on the bassoon freely. The blades will not vibrate freely or respond easily to the breath. To overcome this difficulty I have found it advisable to push the first wire ring closer to the second.
Should the opposite condition prevail, that is, too much wood gouged from the cane and the higher tones do not respond correctly the reed may be improved by pushing the first ring up towards the tip of the reed.
A word of caution: do not tamper with the ring too much. It is best to leave the ring in its original place, but if movement of the ring is needed, care should be taken to move it as little as possible. The finished reed must have the shape of the illustrated reed shown at Fig. 9.
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